Seeing with New Eyes

 

"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" - Marcel Proust

The air was a brisk -10° Celsius as I arrived at the San Sebastián, the northern Argentinian border on the island of Tierra del Fuego. The orange and pink painted sky was enhanced by its reflection off the snow-covered landscape.

(5 July 2019) I had been offered a waiting room to spend the night, or as long as I wanted, in a place pretty much only known for being the border post. Most travellers won't even be able to tell you what it looks like never mind other scenery. The likely comment would be "...I was sleeping because there's nothing for miles and miles..."

Sub-zero temperatures sunrise at the Argentina border in Tierra del Fuego.

Well, the sunset had caught my attention and the next morning, the warm room didn't take much to convince me to stay longer. The polar cold front was in full swing and a -12° Celsius knocking at the door. 

After a spectacular sunset, and some coffee of course, I decided to take a walk toward the coast...with the thermal overall on, I headed out. 

Tierra del Fuego coast at the Argentinian border of San Sebastian.

This coastline is part of the San Sebastián Bay where the "Ruta 3" follows the coast to Hito 1, the border with Chile. (No border post) Just south of the border post, the road splits to the border posts of Argentina and west to Chile (14km apart). 

Bay of San Sebastian, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina.

These are grand landscapes with the odd rocky outcrops and then a beach where low tide goes out for kilometres. Light playing over the snow, ice and wet low tide beach changes through a host of pastel colours. 

Tierra del Fuego winter sunset, Argentina.

How many people rarely stopped here more than necessary in winter? Very few unfortunately as most tourists pass in summer. The winter wonderland of San Sebastián remains mostly under-appreciated.

 

Bay of San Sebastian, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina.

Sunset the second day was clouded out but the third day's sunset turned into a light play and show that left me speechless. I didn't have gloves with me at this moment but I wasn't leaving this for anything!

Tierra del Fuego winter sunset, Argentina.

Seeing with new eyes got new meaning too as this sunset also turned out to be the last straw that broke the proverbial camel's back. A few days with sun and snow without sunglasses cost me dearly, especially this bright and beautiful sunset. 

The next morning my eyes were swollen and inflamed; it would be another two days for recovery.

(The photo shows my eyes at midday - the morning the swelling was considerably worse and any light caused a lot of pain)